Akara

The cool, laid-back little sister of Aji Akokomi’s Fitzrovia hit Akoko, Akara joins a growing band of new restaurants that have found a home in Borough Yards in recent months. It may be located beneath the arches – brick walls, exposed ventilation - but the look is smart and contemporary with leather banquettes, a breezy bar and an open-plan kitchen with countertop dining. It’s the sort of space that is guaranteed to put you in a chilled mood. As for the food, the puffy Nigerian black-bean fritters from which Akara takes its name are a revelation, perhaps stuffed with smoky braised ox cheek and paired with a blistering sauce of Scotch bonnet chillies. Bigger plates also hit the spot, from grilled sea bream accompanied by an ‘almost addictive’ caramelised onion and lemon sauce to Lagos chicken (aka BBQ poussin), which arrives with an orange-hued Senegalese hot sauce. Its pungent, smoky flavours linger long on the palate. Sides and accompaniments come highly recommended too – especially the Efik-style coconut rice with ginger and garlic topped with a single blackened carrot. We also loved the softened plantain with grilled octopus and pepper relish garnished with wispy deep-fried kale. The menu is short, but friendly staff are more than happy to explain the dishes and recommend suitable drinks: Afro-themed cocktails, draught lager and softs such as pineapple tonic suit the food, although there’s also a modest collection of global wines by the glass or bottle. In short, Akara offers an intriguing introduction to contemporary West African cooking without breaking the bank.