The story
Bancone Golden Square in London builds its Italian cooking around dough that is shaped by hand each morning. Recognised as a Local Gem by The Good Food Guide, the venue prioritises faultless fresh pasta over theatrical presentation. The Italian kitchen treats every shape as a vessel for precise sauce adhesion, drawing on detailed techniques like using a litre of water per hundred grams and salting heavily before the boil. This hands-on approach keeps the texture firm to the tooth. Chefs also reserve a cup of starchy boiling water to loosen sauces later, ensuring every coating stays silky as the dish cools.
The menu highlights silk handkerchief fazzoletti tossed in walnut butter alongside a slow-cooked egg yolk. Spicy pork and nduja ragù cling to wide tagliatelle, while charcoal tagliolini pairs with tender squid and sharp pickled jalapeño. Crisp fried artichokes dressed with romesco bridge the gap between starters and mains. Each plate relies on straightforward ingredients handled with care.
Guests move through a floorplan that feels noticeably wider than the Covent Garden original. A tucked-away basement doubles as a cocktail lounge where visitors can unwind after their meal. The wine list leans heavily into keenly priced regional Italian bottles, guided by a simple pairing logic that matches acidity to fat and sweetness to spice. A splash of white wine vinegar balances richer preparations, keeping the palate refreshed between bites.
Recognition
Ambience
Location
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