The story
Brat in London delivers a focused approach to Spanish fire-led cooking that traces back to coastal Getaria. Chef Tomos Parry opened the Shoreditch kitchen in 2018 above Smoking Goat, drawing inspiration from family-run grills along the Basque coast. The center of the room features a massive, industrial stove that operates like a medieval furnace. Wood burns steadily beneath heavy iron surfaces where whole fish and cuts of beef cook directly over open flames.
The name references the Old English term for turbot, which arrives at tables grilled whole inside a wire basket placed directly on the coals. Large sharing platters of beef ribs or wood pigeon anchor the main courses while smoked cod’s roe and grilled peas provide essential starting points. Oysters roasted with local seaweed and spring asparagus paired with fresh curd follow the same straightforward preparation method. Each plate depends on direct flame contact instead of heavy sauces, preserving the clean profile expected from Spanish cooking.
The upstairs space maintains a deliberately loud and active environment that mirrors bustling port-town eateries. Wooden tables sit close together to encourage conversation among groups working through the extensive meat and seafood offerings. Staff coordinate multiple shared orders efficiently while the kitchen pushes constant heat onto the pass. This steady rhythm recently earned the venue a spot on the National Restaurant Awards fifty list, leaving guests with charred edges on their plates and clear appreciation for the straightforward Spanish cuisine.
Recognition
Location
