Celebrated table

Brat x Climpson’s Arch

Tomos Parry’s wood-fired kitchen delivers acclaimed Basque-inspired Modern British cooking under a live railway arch in Hackney.

The story

Brat x Climpson’s Arch: Award-Winning Modern British Dining in London

Fire and technique

Brat x Climpson’s Arch brings a distinct Modern British approach to London dining, anchored by chef Tomos Parry’s wood-fired methods. The Good Food Guide recently highlighted this Hackney location for its direct handling of seasonal ingredients and straightforward cooking philosophy. Parry returned to the venue after an earlier residency, choosing a site that blends indoor seating with an outdoor courtyard. A central charcoal grill dictates the daily service, allowing proteins and vegetables to develop texture over open flames.

Seasonal plates and fish focus

The menu balances substantial shared items with lighter preparations, featuring a mammoth grilled whole turbot designed to serve four guests. Visitors frequently pair the catch with salted pollock crudo, young leeks dressed with fresh cheese, or a lacy fritto misto of local greens and chilli. Parry also draws on Basque traditions, serving hake pil-pil alongside creamy beans and tender cheek meat. A Basque burnt cheesecake finished with vanilla sauce and rhubarb compôte provides a structured conclusion.

The space and evening rhythm

Diners navigate between the covered arch interior and the terrace, both positioned directly beneath the steady rumble of passing trains. Service moves at a brisk pace, often beginning with a practical request to photograph the handwritten blackboard menu before ordering. Natural wines and signature espresso martinis circulate throughout the room, complementing the unpretentious energy of the kitchen. This Modern British spot maintains a lively cadence that rewards both regulars and first-time visitors.

Recognition

Awards & accolades

2026
The Good Food Guide
Very Good

Details

At a glance

The Good Food Guide 2026 — Very Good
Cuisines Modern British

History

On the record

2026
The Good Food Guide — Very Good

Brat’s Tomos Parry first did a residency at Climpson’s Arch, a coffee roastery near London Fields, back in 2013. He returned after lockdown and has stayed put. On offer is a rollicking inside-outside operation, with tables in the courtyard by the wood-fired grill, and also inside the railway arch where trains rumble overhead. Service starts in perfunctory fashion. ‘Have you taken a photo of the menu?’ passes for 'hello' (the menu is written on a blackboard, so you need to snap a pic). But what a menu! It reveals Parry’s affinity with cooking from the Basque Country. Many come for the mammoth grilled whole turbot (around £150 and enough for four) and Flintstone-esque beef ribs. Lighter ideas include grilled peas in the pod, salted pollock crudo, young leeks with fresh cheese, and a fritto misto of Flourish Farm produce (including, but not limited to, mint leaves, asparagus, broccoli and a whole red chilli). A top tempura chef could hardly better the lacy batter, pristine frying and impeccable produce on show here. Parry is even better known for his fish cookery, and it’s refreshing to see cuts such as hake collar with aïoli and a soothing, traditional hake pil-pil with kokotxas (cheeks) and big creamy beans. Basque burnt cheeecake has become very fashionable of late, thanks in no small part to Parry; his version, with a puddle of vanilla sauce and rhubarb compôte, is a good one. Excellent cocktails including Climpson’s Espresso Martinis, natural wines and cold Estrella Galicia on draught provide the lubrication. On a busy night, the place is packed, the staff harried, the atmosphere unparalleled. Great fun.

Established

Location

Find us

374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, E8 3SB
London, United Kingdom
07843 955309
Visit website
Map showing Brat x Climpson’s Arch