The story
Brat x Climpson’s Arch brings a distinct Modern British approach to London dining, anchored by chef Tomos Parry’s wood-fired methods. The Good Food Guide recently highlighted this Hackney location for its direct handling of seasonal ingredients and straightforward cooking philosophy. Parry returned to the venue after an earlier residency, choosing a site that blends indoor seating with an outdoor courtyard. A central charcoal grill dictates the daily service, allowing proteins and vegetables to develop texture over open flames.
The menu balances substantial shared items with lighter preparations, featuring a mammoth grilled whole turbot designed to serve four guests. Visitors frequently pair the catch with salted pollock crudo, young leeks dressed with fresh cheese, or a lacy fritto misto of local greens and chilli. Parry also draws on Basque traditions, serving hake pil-pil alongside creamy beans and tender cheek meat. A Basque burnt cheesecake finished with vanilla sauce and rhubarb compôte provides a structured conclusion.
Diners navigate between the covered arch interior and the terrace, both positioned directly beneath the steady rumble of passing trains. Service moves at a brisk pace, often beginning with a practical request to photograph the handwritten blackboard menu before ordering. Natural wines and signature espresso martinis circulate throughout the room, complementing the unpretentious energy of the kitchen. This Modern British spot maintains a lively cadence that rewards both regulars and first-time visitors.
Recognition
Location