The story
In the heart of Mayfair on Albemarle Street, Gymkhana has established itself as a defining destination for Indian cuisine in London. The restaurant’s name echoes the social and sporting clubs of India's Raj era, a theme subtly woven into its interior and atmosphere. Whirring ceiling fans, vintage photographs, and worn leather banquettes create a setting that feels both colonial and clubby, comfortable yet undeniably polished.
The cooking at Gymkhana is rooted in the traditions of the Indian subcontinent, executed with a precision and creativity that have earned the restaurant consistent critical acclaim. Its two Michelin stars, described by the guide as offering "excellent cooking," attest to the kitchen’s command over spice, technique, and balance. Diners can expect a menu that honors classic dishes—slow-cooked curries, expertly spiced grilled meats, and fragrant biryanis—while introducing elements of seasonality and British produce.
The atmosphere is lively, filled with the hum of conversation and the clink of glassware, yet the service remains attentive and informed. Whether enjoyed at the bar with a cocktail or in the main dining room, a meal at Gymkhana is a study in controlled opulence and authentic flavor. It is a benchmark for modern Indian dining in a city that celebrates culinary diversity.
Recognition
Details
History
Excellent cooking
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubs, this thoroughbred from the JKS group (Trishna, Hoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of the action takes place in the ground-floor dining room and bar, with its richly upholstered leather seating, whirring ceiling fans, old prints and stag’s heads – not forgetting hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodhpur. The menu shines the spotlight on grills, game and chops, all given a thrilling contemporary spin to match the gussied-up surroundings – from Goan-style salmon tikka with tomato chutney to guinea fowl pepper fry served with a Malabar paratha or tandoori lamb chops unexpectedly pointed up with walnut chutney. Elsewhere, pork cheek vindaloo and a wild muntjac biryani sound inviting, while fans of rogan josh and chicken butter masala also have plenty to cheer about. For something more esoteric, home in on the assortment of ‘nashta’ small plates, perhaps minced kid goat methi keema with pao bread or duck-egg bhurji scrambled with lobster and served alongside a Malabar paratha. Desserts (meetha) continue the mashed-up crossover theme, as in a take on tiramisu involving rasgulla (a syrupy, sponge-like Asian classic) or a Basmati rice pudding (kheer) spiced with cardamom and accompanied by mango sorbet. The standalone bar dispenses cocktails and reinvented punches, alongside nibbles of Amritsari shrimps or Punjabi samosas with sweet/sour tamarind-spiked 'saunth' chutney. Otherwise, specially brewed 4th Rifles Pale Ale and a compendium of thoughtfully selected wines (including some English sparklers) suit the food admirably.
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