Hawksmoor Borough

Occupying the shell of a 19th-century hops and fruit warehouse in the grounds of what was once the Bishop of Winchester’s great palace, this branch of the all-conquering Hawksmoor chain is also temptingly close to the myriad foodie delights of Borough Market. Spread over two floors (with a private dining room in the basement), it follows the brand’s blueprint to the letter. Expect leather-flecked surrounds with acres of wood panelling, parquet floors, comfy chairs and frosted-glass partitions. As for the menu, best-in-show grass-fed British beef is the name of the game, with individual cuts priced by weight – take your pick from bone-in prime ribs, sirloins, rumps, fillets and the like. There’s some seafood too (chargrilled monkfish, whole native lobster with garlic butter) plus ricotta dumplings for the vegetarians. Open your account with, say, Old Spot belly ribs and vinegar slaw, potted beef or Caesar salad; round off with something sweet and calorific – perhaps sticky toffee sundae or peanut butter shortbread. Sunday roasts bring superlative roast beef, aged for 35 days, carved from a whole rump and served with some of the best bone-marrow gravy in town. Hawksmoor burgers and an express menu please the daytime crowd, while the superlative drinks list satisfies everyone with its roster of beefy red wines, craft beers, moreish cocktails and 'sharpeners' such as Le Crunch (Somerset cider brandy, Normandy apple aperitif and Champagne). All of which fuels the venue’s already rollicking atmosphere.