The story
In the heart of London’s financial district, at 90 Bartholomew Close, Ibai brings the traditions of the Basque Country to the capital. The restaurant’s name itself is a nod to the Basque language, and its commitment to that region’s culinary identity is clear from the moment you step inside. A Michelin Recommended restaurant, Ibai has earned its place on the guide for its focused, ingredient-led cooking and its exceptional wine list.
The menu is built around a Basque grill, where the embers do much of the work. Starters are bold and precise: Cantabrian anchovies glistening in arbequina olive oil, a Croque Ibai layering carabinero prawn with boudin noir and Tomme de Brebis, or a silky beef tartare lifted by smoked Espelette pepper. The “From the Embers” section is the heart of the meal, with a deeply flavoured King Crab Rice and a tender octopus marmitako that captures the spirit of the Basque coast.
The grill itself turns out the restaurant’s most memorable dishes. A turbot chop, simply dressed with lemon and olive oil, lets the quality of the fish speak. Slowly-grilled Basque chicken is a masterclass in control, while the steak offering is serious: a 1kg T-bone, sirloin or rib from Black Angus in Castile and Leon, or Galician Blond from Pontevedra. For those seeking the finest, there is also Fullblood Wagyu from Newport, Wales. Sides like beef fat French fries and braised leeks with mustard are exactly what they should be.
The wine list is a destination in itself, with a deep focus on Spain and France. It is particularly strong in Rioja Alavesa, the Basque part of Rioja, and offers cult bottles from Artadi, Benjamin Romeo, and Vega Sicilia. The Bordeaux and Burgundy selections are equally serious, with vintages stretching back decades. This is a list built for those who know what they want – and for those who want to discover something new.
Ibai is open Monday to Saturday, 12pm to 10pm, offering lunch and dinner. The dining room is air-conditioned, with counter seating for those who want to watch the action, and outdoor tables for warmer months. It is a place that understands Basque cuisine not as a theme, but as a living, breathing way of cooking – charcoal, sea, and mountain, all on one plate.
Recognition
Details
History
Against a cavernous backdrop of glass, polished concrete and industrial ducting, filled with hard-edged vibes, a clamorous buzz and unfailing congeniality, Richard Foster’s open-to-view kitchen explores contemporary charcoal cookery with invigorating brio. Rare-breed steaks and Galician blond beef, sourced from retired dairy cows aged between eight and twelve years, are at the heart of the menu, but it’s not all about meat. The Basque-inflected repertoire appeals to a wider crowd, with small bites to lighten the load (our panisse with black truffle and Ossau-Iraty cheese was insanely moreish), alongside fish, sauces, salads and sides. One palpable hit at our meal was a stunning ember-roasted scallop with espelette and garlic butter – so good we ordered it twice – and we were mightily impressed by the sheer quality of the £35 lunch special of sirloin steak frites, which we teamed with a punchy anchovy and herb salsa. To finish, pain perdu with rum and hazelnut ice cream proved to be hugely satisfying and just the right size for sharing – with choice ranging from chocolate cake to gâteau Basque. Reporters, too, have been quick off the mark with their favourites, singling out the famed croque Ibai (a toasted sandwich with carabinero prawn, boudin noir and Tomme de Brebis cheese), the ‘meaty and meltingly delicious’ pâté Basque with truffle honey and grilled bread, and a spectacular if luxuriously priced dish of king crab rice. This is good cooking, albeit at prices that are not for the faint-hearted; most of the intelligently chosen wines (predominantly from France and Spain) are significantly over £40, while selections by the glass jump up quickly from £10 to £21.
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