Kikuchi

It was a reader's tip-off that led us to Kikuchi, an out-of-the-way Japanese sushi bar hidden down Hanway Street, between Oxford Street and Tottenham Court Road. Although the place opened in 1998, it could be a decade older with its glossy tiled floor, black venetian blinds, and chrome and black furniture. The Hill Street Blues theme playing on the soundtrack only added to the 80s mood on our visit. The restaurant was busy, the curtained-off private dining room booked by a party of besuited Japanese businessmen. In fact, most of the diners appear to be Japanese and the atmosphere is convivial, rather than cool. A seat at the counter allows for a good view of chef Masayuki Kikuchi (and one assistant) in action. The omakase is a very fair £130, and there’s a full carte with sushi selections from £50 to £70. A couple of cold dishes arrive quickly to kick off proceedings: simple, marinated aubergine, then a new-to-us creation of kombu-cured turbot over noodle-like shredded omelette in dashi broth. Next, an audacious trio of cod milt (sperm sacs), salmon and trout roe, and red snapper tartare with grilled sea urchin, the likes of which one doesn’t often see in London. This is followed by a succession of similarly intriguing dishes, too numerous to describe in detail, but all prepared by Kikuchi-san himself in a basic kitchen kitted out with a rice cooker, mini grill, makeshift steamer, and many sharp knives. Further highlights range from soy-brushed sea bream nigiri and red snapper with pimento chilli to salmon roe gunkan and botan shrimp nigiri (its head shows up later in the miso soup). As for drinks, various sakes, Japanese whiskies, beer, and tea complement the menu. The contrast between the modest, off-the-radar setting, the quality of the ingredients and the ambition of the menu is appealing. For fans of Japanese food who crave ambitious cooking unencumbered by the trappings of luxury, Kikuchi is a find.