Lardo

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Lardo London Review: Italian Cooking with Global Flair in Hackney

Fire, fermentation, and an avant-garde touch

Italian cooking at Lardo in London balances deep tradition with a wider global palette. Marta Sandini runs the kitchen as the restaurant's avant-garde Nonna. She guides a menu built on fire, fermentation, pickling, and smoke. Handmade pastas arrive with unexpected sauces. Vegetables receive equal rigour. The kitchen treats every ingredient with respect, shaping dishes around seasonality and simplicity. The result is bold seasonal eating that maintains playful creativity.

Signature plates and shared tables

The menu invites sharing. Individual orders work just as well here. Confit rabbit features in an open lasagna accompanied by fermented radish and chicken jus gras. Stone bass rests in cep oil, paired with roast hen of the woods. Cuttlefish swims in pinenut milk infused with wild garlic oil. A roasted aubergine uses tomato glaze and black garlic, then layers peanut butter over cottage cheese. Desserts mirror the kitchen's approach. Tirami-choux swaps tart shells for airy pastry. Whipped brown butter panna cotta rests on pickled strawberries and basil. Italian techniques adapt to bold combinations throughout.

A Hackney staple recognised by critics

Lardo opened in 2012. It has since become a fixture in Hackney. The industrial-chic space welcomes London Fields residents daily. The Good Food Guide awarded a Local Gem distinction in 2026. Critics note the venue holds its own against fierce local competition. Blistered-crust pizzas emerge from the oven all evening. Options range from margherita to rotating specials. Weekday workers lunches let diners sample the menu, offering two courses for £21. Monday evenings host Crust Club, featuring aperitivo service and two pizzas for £25. A concise wine list starts at £28. Bottles focus on low-intervention producers from biodynamic vineyards. The bar also serves local spirits and regional beers alongside the wine selection.