Legado

The crosstown cousin of the West End’s Sabor, Legado is the latest opening from Nieves Barragán, a warm-toned, contemporary warehouse refit that fits seamlessly into the Shoreditch scene. It’s multifunctional too, incorporating an all-day, no-bookings taberna – with a covered pavement terrace – for light tapas bites, and a more leisurely restaurant offering a big, broad sweep of creative dishes drawn from culinary traditions all over Spain. Be prepared for a certain level of hubbub in the hard-surfaced interior, but also expect delicious tapas-esque plates designed for sharing. It’s easy to work one’s way through quite a selection, from pig and apple empanadilla or the moreish prawn- and girolle-stuffed squid in ink sauce (flying out on our visit), to frit Mallorquin, herb-crusted rabbit shoulder, and a luxurious black fideuà with rock shrimp and alioli. And for the true ‘Legado’ experience, we recommend bagging a (very comfortable) stool at the long, broad counter overlooking the open kitchen for a fascinating view of the chefs at work. The vibe is warm and personal, service follows suit, and to drink there’s Estrella beer, sherry and an extensive choice of excellent Spanish wines. Before you get embroiled, though, consider one of the inventive three-sip serves – mini cocktails which might involve melon, grape and tequilla.

Nieves Barragán Mohacho is the Spanish chef with the Midas touch with her second London restaurant having been just as much of a crowd-pleasing smash as her debut Sabor. Her sophomore album, once again launched in partnership with JKS Restaurants, explores a more modern, regionally diverse expression of Spanish cooking. Taking its name from the Spanish word for legacy, the restaurant is billed as a deeply personal interpretation of Spain and its rich regional food culture. Rather than leaning on familiar references, Barragán Mohacho moves into lesser-known dishes and a broader spectrum of ingredients, offering a more contemporary take on Spanish cuisine. At the heart of Legado is a focus on whole-animal butchery, carried out in-house and reflected across a menu of more than 50 dishes. Key plates include a half suckling pig head with jamón powder and lemon, lamb neck empanadilla, herb-crusted rabbit shoulder, and orzo with fried lamb sweetbreads and lovage. The cooking feels more expansive, contemporary and inventive than the rustic refinement of Sabor, while still grounded in classical Spanish technique and flavour. The spacious 64-cover dining room features a dramatic double-height layout anchored by a theatrical open kitchen with custom-built ovens, alongside a central bar and deli counter. Exposed London stock brickwork is paired with a contemporary palette of green, plaster pink, and terracotta, creating a setting that manages to feel both industrial and inviting.