Marksman

An East End boozer from Victorian times, the Marksman exudes the wood-panelled dignity of yesteryear alongside the accoutrements that east Londoners expect to see in today's pub. Ground-floor snackers huddle round candles, nursing fig-leaf and strawberry daiquiris rather than mild ale these days, while the full menu (available upstairs) puts an enterprising kitchen through its paces. Limber up your taste buds with Porthilly oysters and mignonette dressing (with the Tabasco bottle on hand) or a curried lamb bun with salt lime yoghurt, before a saunter through the day's options. Grilled goat chops with anchovy is the sort of starter you're not likely to find everywhere – best grab it while you can – or there may be duck and Tamworth pork terrine with burnt apple mustard. Anticipating the slap of hot spice, we found the devilled sardines a little on the angelic side, but there was nothing wrong with a handsomely puffed and browned chicken and girolle pie for sharing, served with mayonnaise-lashed chips. Fish possibilities have taken in a lively crew of cod, clams and sea beet, all blown in on a breeze of saffron, and there are (fairly pricey) side-orders of organic Sussex saladings in tarragon buttermilk dressing. To end things on a nourishing note, try rhubarb frangipane or burnt cheesecake with mirabelles. Wines are served by the small glass, half-litre or bottle, roping in one of the rarer reds of Rías Baixas among a choice of house selections that also includes Provence Viognier and Cinsault rosé.