The story
One Club Row occupies a Grade II listed Victorian building in Shoreditch, a setting the team describes as “faded grandeur.” The restaurant is designed for long lunches, late dinners, dining at the bar, and “one too many martinis.” Above the main dining room, a series of private rooms occupy the former apartment of the previous owners – spaces once known for raucous house parties – now returned to hosting events and the occasional post-dinner show.
The kitchen draws on the spirit of New York taverns and Paris bistros, translating those influences into Modern British cooking. The menu changes regularly, but recent offerings include a classic steak tartare with beef dripping toast, roasted cod with brown shrimp and capers, and a One Club Row cheeseburger “au poivre.” Starters range from leek and crab with brown butter to Cantabrian anchovies with marinated red pepper. For the table, there are pickled jalapeño gougères and lobster and country ham croquettes. Desserts include twice-baked chocolate cake with crème fraîche and a New York style cheesecake with quince and Calvados.
The restaurant has earned a place in the Michelin Guide, recommended for its confident cooking and distinctive atmosphere. The bar is as much a part of the experience as the dining room – the Club Row Martini, made with Tanqueray 10, Punt e Mes, and Dolin Bianco, is a signature. An extensive wine list covers France, Italy, Spain, and beyond, with a strong selection by the glass. Whether you come for a full dinner or simply a martini at the counter, One Club Row delivers the easy, unhurried energy of a great neighbourhood spot – one that happens to be in one of London’s most interesting corners.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
One Club Row, the dining room above the revitalised Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch, is a restaurant at the height of its powers. Unless you pounce early (reservations open eight weeks ahead), you may be stuck with 5.30pm or 9.45pm. We choose early and find we’re not even the first there, the evening buzz building with every martini shaken and served. New York meets Paris in a classic bistro setting, characterised by colourful posters, white tablecloths, bentwood chairs, and a piano player at the weekend. Chef Patrick Powell (previously at Allegra and the Midland Grand Dining Room) looks more towards New York for his menu. The burger, with ‘au poivre’ sauce for dipping, is a signature, along with excellent Caesar salad, sirloin steak, and lobster and country ham croquettes. It’s not the weather for tomato and peach gazpacho at inspection but we can still admire the flavour (even if the peachy sweetness is near absent) and the addition of goats’ curd and red pepper is a nice touch. Steak tartare is pleasingly coarse-cut, arriving ready dressed and spicy. Pork schnitzel with sauce moutarde and Gorgonzola is as rich as it sounds but is well fried and not oily. Side orders – including nicely snappy green beans – prove necessary for balance. Desserts are uninspiring though respectable: the New York cheesecake fits the theme. The Francophile wine list opens at £35 and keeps mostly under £100. Prices are fair across the board; One Club Row feels like a restaurant that genuinely hopes to see you again. N.B. Walk-ins are often available; an illuminated ‘walk-in seats available’ sign at street-level lets you know if so.
The creation of James Dye and Benjy Leibowitz, One Club Row is located above gastropub The Knave of Clubs and is accessed by an inauspicious but much photographed graffiti covered door to the back of the pub.The restaurant, which is inspired by the brasseries of Paris and taverns of New York, was last year's One to Watch and its enduring popularity means that it has made it onto the 2026 list proper. The appeal is simple: One Club Row is an unashamedly crowd-pleasing offer, with big flavours and hearty portions, a strong drinks offer that leans into the martini, and a bright and buzzy first floor dining room that makes you feel you could step outside and be in Brooklyn. Start with the pickled jalapeño gougères and the steak tartare with beef dripping bread before moving on to the burger au poivre that comes with a jug of rich peppercorn sauce for dunking, or the pork schnitzel with sauce moutarde and gorgonzola. The space itself has been lovingly restored, with original 19th century panelling, fireplace and cornicing still intact, complemented by a series of prints from London artist Joy Yamusangie. It's a buzzy, jovial space that has old fashioned hospitality at its core.
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