Pearly Queen

The Good Food Guide — Good

Following the closure of Cornerstone in Hackney Wick, chef-proprietor Tom Brown is now focusing his energy on this more accessible Spitalfields sibling. With Scandi-style minimalism and some counter seating, the small space may not be as comfortable as the his previous restaurant but it feels every inch the contemporary venue , divided between two floors with the kitchen open to view in the basement. The brief menu kicks off with a handful of nibbles and oysters in various guises – perhaps raw with a hint of Scotch bonnet and a dash of lime, or a creamy pickled version with horseradish and celery. From a selection of small plates, we sampled cured gurnard in a silky, zesty pool of almond and blood orange, as well as an unusual umami-laden crab and Parmesan 'risotto' fritter. Shared centrepiece plates also delivered vivid flavours and on-point cooking – from a casserole of hearty cuttlefish lasagne with a decent blob of basil mayonnaise on the side to a meaty monkfish tail (on the bone), served with a delicious roast-chicken butter sauce. Overall, we loved Brown's simple, confident approach to top-quality seafood. As a finale, try the ingenious sticky toffee madeleines with golden raisins and ginger cake or the signature PQ trifle with strawberries and vanilla custard. The whole place is run with great enthusiasm, while drinks encompass excellent cocktails, some natural wines, and a good choice of styles and grapes from across Europe and beyond – though prices climb quickly from their £37 entry point.

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