The story
Plates in London delivers modern British vegetarian cooking born from a direct health pivot. After a 2016 Lyme disease diagnosis reshaped his relationship with food, head chef Kirk Haworth abandoned animal products and rebuilt his technique around seasonal produce. He trained at The French Laundry and Restaurant Sat Bains before committing fully to this path. His sister Keeley manages the creative strategy alongside this sustainable approach. This unwavering dedication secured five green radishes from the We're Smart Green Guide and a 'Good' rating in The Good Food Guide.
The kitchen balances earthy richness against bright acidity across eight or eleven course sequences. Barbecued maitake mushrooms sit beside black bean mole and crunchy puffed rice, while caramelised lion’s mane pairs with bug cucumber and gooseberry. Diners start with the house laminated sourdough roll before moving toward courses like almond ricotta with peach and elderflower. The meal closes with chicory root ice cream dressed in sour cherry and toasted macadamia, highlighting the modern vegetarian kitchen’s precision.
Set on a gritty stretch of Old Street, the dining room holds just six guests per table, keeping conversation straightforward. Staff follow a steady routine that matches the unhurried pacing of these multi-course itineraries. A mirrored development kitchen sits just steps away for private bookings, leaving the main floor for seated diners. Botanical cocktails and selected wines complement the vegetable-focused dining without masking the natural characteristics of each ingredient.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
A decade ago, Kirk Haworth, a chef with The French Laundry, Restaurant Sat Bains and The Square in his DNA, was diagnosed with Lyme disease. His subsequent adoption of a plant-based diet in pursuit of better health has resulted in this tiny, unassuming but highly conceptualised vegetarian restaurant on a gritty stretch of Old Street. Haworth’s vision here is an entirely personal one, and as his style leans heavily towards pricey, high-aspiration fine dining, it’s not for everyone. Opinions are mixed. Reporters have noted a lack of balance in some dishes. Isle of Wight tomatoes, for example, layered with house ricotta and strawberry, is a tangle of flavours, though arguably it does not need its finishing touch of frozen tarragon granita, or the accompanying barbecued tomato broth which, while punchy and full flavoured, belongs to an entirely different dish. But when on form, the kitchen fully exploits contrasting flavours and textures. There are good reports of the BBQ maitaki mushroom with a deep, earthy mushroom purée, heft from spicy kimchi and crunch from crispy wild rice, and for a mung bean and urad dhal lasagne with ‘the richest beautiful miso sauce’. Praise, too, for the house-made sourdough roll ‘flaky and crispy with a croissant-like texture’ and for a dessert of rice-pudding ice cream with chewy beets, mulberries and olive oil. The whole operation is run with a friendly routine, but the Achilles heel is pace – the regularly changing seven/eight-course taster can ramble on for several hours. Wines are well chosen to complement the food, whether you opt for a pairing (non-alcoholic, too) or something from the interesting by-the-glass selection. The cocktail list is also worth getting stuck into.
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