The Begging Bowl

Named after an emblematic symbol of Buddhist Thai culture, Peckham’s ever-buzzing Begging Bowl has been feeding crowds of noisy locals since 2012 and continues to pack ‘em in. The restaurant’s all-weather outdoor space is a big draw, and they now take group bookings too. Kiwi chef/co-owner Jane Alty trained under Thai gastro-guru David Thompson and her regularly changing 12-dish menu is underpinned by directly imported ingredients and supplies of British produce; the kitchen also has its own coconut press. Tapas-style sharing is the name of the game, although staff are keen to upsell and we ended up with much more food that we could possibly eat. Despite the occasional misfire there is much to enjoy here. A salad of chargrilled beef rump is pointed up with mint, coriander and roasted rice (tip: use the whole leaves for wrapping), while a green curry of guinea fowl, palm hearts, Thai aubergines, pungent krachai (fingerroot) and sweet basil is well balanced and downright delicious. Also don’t miss the deep-fried whole sea bass with physalis, green mango and tamarind – crisp, sweet, spicy and flavourful. Dishes tend to arrive randomly (not always the best way) and everything is accompanied by ‘limitless’ quantities of jasmine and sticky rice. There are some uncommonly good desserts too, notably the ‘rice tea jelly’ with coconut cream and nectarine granita, and the kitchen’s spin on affogato – Vietnamese espresso with condensed milk ice cream. Staff are welcoming and enthusiastic, although service veers erratically from over-attentive to forgetful. To drink, the Thai lemonade is immensely refreshing; otherwise, Asian-themed cocktails, beers and spice-friendly wines do the trick.