The story
Tucked away on a quiet street in Fulham, the Harwood Arms brings a Michelin star to a proper pub setting. The kitchen champions the very best British produce with a clear focus on game and wild food – a commitment that has earned the Harwood its reputation as the only Michelin-starred pub in London. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, belying the precision of the cooking.
Head Chef Josh Cutress leads the kitchen, drawing on lengthy stints at The Square and The Ledbury. He continues the Harwood’s tradition of seasonal British ingredients and sustainability. Directors Brett Graham (of three Michelin-starred The Ledbury) and Mike Robinson (of The Elder and The Woodsman) bring decades of expertise in game, farming, and sourcing exceptional ingredients, much of which comes through their own company, Capability Graham.
Provenance drives every dish. The team works with a network of trusted suppliers to keep quality consistent, serving Modern British food with a game emphasis – wild venison, foraged produce, and seasonal vegetables. Sunday roasts are served all day, and the interesting wine list is backed by a generous corkage policy. Vegetarian options are available, but the kitchen cannot accommodate vegans or guests with anaphylactic allergies.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
High quality cooking
Brett Graham (The Ledbury) and Mike Robinson (game specialist) opened the Harwood Arms on a quiet residential street near Fulham Broadway in 2009, and the kitchen shows a long-running commitment to prime British produce, delivering a concise seasonal menu of four choices at each course – an extremely likeable line-up of reinvented classics we would be happy to eat on a regular basis. It seemed only fitting to kick off with the dish most associated with this pub – a punchy, golden-brown venison Scotch egg accompanied by Oxford sauce, much copied but rarely bettered. This was followed by a superb warm pumpkin tart topped with Quicke’s goat’s cheese, which worked well with a mushroom purée. Complete technique was on show in a dish of excellent Berkshire fallow deer served with a faggot, red leaves and cranberries, as well as in Cornish monkfish (on the bone) topped with brown shrimps and accompanied by roasted cauliflower, tenderstem broccoli and brown crab butter. The accompanying deep-fried new potatoes with garlic butter had us nodding with pleasure. Desserts are convincingly puddingy and feel absolutely right for the setting – from a perfect custard flan with caramel and spiced plum ice cream to a pineapple upside-down cake with malted treacle and crème-fraîche ice cream. The dining area is a low-key space decked out with dark green wood panelling, a proudly displayed stag's head and generously spaced tables (with cutlery kept in a brown-leather gamekeeper's holster). The vibe is relaxed and service is friendly without being overly chatty. To drink, there is quality across the price-spectrum, from a selection of 21 wines by the glass (from £7) to high-calibre representation from Burgundy (including top producer, Domaine Ramonet) as well as Bordeaux's Left Bank.
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