The Kerfield Arms

Formerly the Crooked Well, this restored Victorian pub-restaurant on a quiet residential street is sibling to the Baring in Hoxton and destined to be an equal hit. The large corner location, painted a muted racing green, conceals a spacious, light interior: the eating and drinking areas smoothly co-exist (the latter also serves walk-ins) and the pub is a haven in an area with little outdoor seating. The design – stripped-back with lots of wood, Art Deco-style lighting and neutral colours – could be a formulaic template of a new-wave urban pub, but the quality of the food and unstuffy atmosphere raise it above the crowd. As does the sense that it doesn’t take itself too seriously – don’t miss the proper chips and garlic mayo. Jay Styler’s cooking is clever and confident, plays to its strengths and knows its limits, with seasonal British produce to the fore. The menu is short and deceptively simple, bursting with big flavours that hit the spot. The Cornish squid and lardo shish with Aleppo chilli topped with a tangle of sea greens has become a must-have fixture, likewise the fruit-topped doughnut that releases a spurt of chamomile custard when pierced. Other dishes might range from a fragrant summer starter of barattiere 'cucumber', watermelon, gazpacho and lovage to a generous portion of Middle White pork loin with grilled apricots, spelt and hispi cabbage (a fine combo of savoury, sweet and earthy). And hurrah for piña colada on the drinks list. It’s the sort of pub you’d be happy to call your local.