The story
The Lacy Nook serves Balkan cuisine from a weatherproof studio space in Walthamstow, where chef Elena Smileva transforms ingredients from the Adriatic shores to the Dinaric uplands. Smileva, who hails from Macedonia, describes her kitchen as a labour of love that began in Stoke Newington in 2016 before relocating to this Walthamstow location in 2023. She runs the venture with her partner Jason and their son Florian, drawing on nearly two decades of living in the community to create plates that reflect family celebrations and cultural memory. Smileva draws on her experience as a self-taught cook to balance tradition with personal touches.
Small plates form the heartland of the menu, offering riffs on regional traditions such as charred hispi cabbage paired with rose harissa, labneh, and crispy kadaif. The kitchen prepares bread topped with barbecued Marmite-treacle mushrooms and kefalograviera, served alongside a selection of dips including a feta and Caesar blend studded with artichokes, nigella seeds, anchovies, and fresh dill. Hearty options include a Serbian-style beef pljeskavica burger accompanied by pickles and kajmak, while lemon chicken arrives with skordalia purée and olives. Desserts tend toward simplicity, typically featuring a Basque cheesecake that rounds out the meal.
The dining room blends the feel of a beach shack with a pergola, featuring drop-down awnings and heaters that allow for comfortable seating throughout the seasons. An open kitchen housed in a shipping container sits just outside, releasing the aromas of Balkan cooking into the studio complex. Guests often linger over a short wine list that highlights producers from the region, followed by shots of rakija. A glossary printed on the menu helps diners navigate the distinct terminology of the cuisine.
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