The Melusine

Inventive seafood dishes with a strong Greek accent are the main attraction at this intimate restaurant on the marina in London’s St Katharine Docks. In summer, a pavement table overlooking the water and the moored yachts might transport you to a taverna on Mykonos – if you have a fertile imagination. However, on a cold and wet winter’s night it's a much less romantic proposition. Luckily, Greek-born Theodore Kyriakou’s food is worth the journey, whatever the weather. Some may remember the chef for the wildly inventive and eclectic food at More, his sadly short-lived Bermondsey restaurant. While the menu at the Melusine is a little more restrained, there’s still plenty of imagination and finesse on offer. At a test meal, a starter of gently steamed trout exemplified the house style: delicate fish perfectly complemented by classic, lemony avgolemono. Kyriakou’s refined version boasted an almost thin custard-like texture and was split with a verdant green herb oil to dramatic visual effect. Slices of pickled carrot and micro amaranth leaves worked beautifully as a citric and aromatic counterpoint, while nori mayonnaise added a welcome umami tang. An octopus main course was more rustic but equally enjoyable. A single, large tentacle was chargrilled to tender perfection and simply served with fava bean purée, watercress pesto and mesclun leaves that supplied interest but didn’t detract from the main event. Desserts, such as blue-cheese ice cream with olive oil or strawberry and hazelnut cake with sweetcorn ice cream, might sound plain weird but a slice of chocolate and tahini tart turned out to be a terrific idea, with the sesame flavour enhancing the high-quality chocolate and adding body to the filling without making it claggy. Unless you are an expert on Greek wines, the list might be something of a challenge; however, knowledgeable staff are on hand to guide you to some unusual names – including an affordable and very enjoyable Smederevka from Macedonia (available by the carafe).