The story
The Waterman’s Arms is a pub and restaurant set on the banks of the River Thames in Barnes, London. The team describes it simply as “a place in the neighbourhood for all to enjoy,” and the warmth of that invitation is felt throughout. The menus are produce-driven, focusing on whatever is best in season. This commitment to quality and seasonality has earned the pub a Michelin Recommended award, a recognition that speaks to the kitchen’s consistent execution of Modern British cuisine.
The menu changes with the seasons, but the style is clear: unpretentious, ingredient-led cooking. Starters might include a Jersey oyster with rhubarb, a Thai scallop, or a potato fritter with friggitelli pepper and pecorino. Mains range from a semolina gnocchi with caponata and goat’s cheese to a whole arroz de marisco, or a spit-roast piri piri chicken for two. The Sunday lunch is a draw, offering a dedicated menu with sharing roasts.
The wine list is extensive and thoughtfully curated, with a strong selection from Europe, South Africa, and beyond, alongside a cellar list of serious bottles. Cocktails and a well-kept selection of draught beers round out the drinks offering.
The Waterman’s Arms is designed to be a welcoming spot for all. A balcony with six tables for two is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The pub welcomes children and, downstairs, dogs kept on a leash. A portion of seating is always held for walk-ins, keeping the spirit of a traditional local alive.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
At a time when so many pubs are closing down, it's heart-warming to see the revival of this riverside hostelry. The revamped Waterman's Arms now sets out its stall as a neighbourhood pub-cum-restaurant where exposed brick walls, wooden benches softened by claret-coloured velvet cushions, candlelight and views of the Thames across the way make it the perfect spot to unwind. When we called in, a bluesy soundtrack added to the mood, making it so cosy that we were reluctant to leave. Eager young staff also gave the impression that they just wanted us to hang around and have a good time. The kitchen is headed by Sam Andrews (ex-Camberwell Arms and Soho's Ducksoup), who has created a concise seasonal menu with daily specials chalked up on a board – market fish with saffron, for example. The cooking is direct, with few excesses, and the kitchen teases out maximum flavour with the minimum of fuss – as seen in our starter of gutsy, satisfying confit pork with white onion on toast. Mains are equally impressive, from big flakes of gurnard tangled with kohlrabi, coriander and a dash of yoghurt to juicy duck breast served with Provençal onions, olives and a blood-orange segment. After that, a wedge of mature Comté, accompanied by prunes and spelt digestives, paved the way for a pleasing sweet finale involving poached pear with dark chocolate and crème anglaise. Weekday lunches on Thursdays and Fridays are great value, and Sunday brings a choice of roasts in addition to the usual repertoire. Like everything here, the choice of beers, cocktails and the diverse wines (from £28.50) has been put together with care.
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