The story
Tiella by Dara Klein anchors itself on Columbia Road, bringing regional Italian cooking to East London through a decidedly unpretentious lens. Chef Dara Klein developed this menu alongside childhood friend Ry Jessup, drawing directly from her Pugliese heritage and early years spent in San Giovanni in Persiceto. The kitchen favors casarecce pasta and rustic techniques over modern gimmicks. A spot on the National Restaurant Awards 100 list reflects how consistently this straightforward approach resonates with diners.
Generous portions sit at the center of the menu, where orecchiette pairs with bitter cime di rapa and toasted breadcrumbs. Delica pumpkin meets sweet sour radicchio and melted taleggio for a dish built around slow roasted vegetables. Chicken Milanese arrives dressed with crisp green apple, celery, fennel, and fresh herbs to cut through the richness. Every plate follows a simple logic rooted in family kitchens rather than trend driven menus.
Guests enter a 175 year old Victorian pub that now holds thirty seats across its main dining room, a fifteen seat bar, and a twenty seat terrace. The wine program was shaped together with Klein’s father at Artigiano Imports, prioritizing producers who work with holistic farming methods. Two Italian house selections from Uncharted Wines run continuously on tap. The space feels lived in, letting the food carry the conversation while the historic brickwork provides a steady backdrop.
Recognition
Ambience
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