The story
Tiella Trattoria sits on Columbia Road in London, where chef Dara Klein leads an Italian kitchen that earned a Very Good rating from The Good Food Guide. She took over the former Globe pub and rebuilt the space around a central open kitchen. Diners often gather near the pass to watch her plate punchy dishes built on straightforward techniques and fresh ingredients. The kitchen favors bold flavors without unnecessary fuss, letting quality produce carry the meal.
A salad of delica pumpkin and radicchio agrodolce gains depth from a creamy taleggio dressing that ties the bitter greens together. Bowls of pasta e fagioli arrive silken and rich, defying their humble origins through careful simmering and precise seasoning. The braised squid stands out as a particularly tender option, cooked until it yields easily and finished with olives and fragrant mint. These plates reward lingering rather than rushing through a quick lunch.
Stained glass windows cast colored light across vintage Italian crockery and framed family portraits that line the walls. This curated mix gives the dining room a lived-in warmth that feels completely at ease with casual crowds. Guests who skip reservations can still find space at the dedicated bar for stuzzichini and easy sips. A Cynar spritz or a carafe of Tuscan red pairs naturally with the relaxed pace of the evening service.
Recognition