10 Tib Lane

There’s much to admire about this tall, narrow Grade II-listed building just off Albert Square. Spread over three levels with ‘classy but settled decor’, it incorporates a ground-floor bar that sets the scene with a short list of natural and low-intervention wines including a ‘pretty whacky’ house white (a Chardonnay/Viura/Xarel-lo blend from Zarautz) – although we found the cocktails subpar on our most recent visit. Upstairs are two cavernous but ‘bewitchingly cosy’ dining rooms, overseen by a brigade of supremely friendly, professional and attentive staff who receive plenty of plaudits from readers. The kitchen delivers a seasonally changing menu of small and larger plates for sharing, all overseen by a chef with her finger on the pulse of contemporary dining – think 'lacto cucumber', ‘pickled beech mushrooms’ and 'burnt onion butter'. Our standout dish was a serving of spring beef tartare (diced not minced) dressed in leek mayonnaise mingled with raw peas and asparagus for textural bite and finished with a pickled egg yolk – although we were also impressed by a beautifully presented plate of cured sea bream with smoked crème fraîche and pine nuts. Bigger dishes include impressive cuts of meat, from slow-cooked lamb shoulder and ex-dairy ribeye to excellent pork collar offset by a sweet and subtly spicy plum ketchup and fragrant pickled cabbage – perfect with some lemony cavolo nero and fried ratte potatoes slathered in garlic cream on the side. To round things off, order a plate of British cheese and/or one of the skilfully crafted desserts – perhaps chocolate mousse sitting atop chocolate crumb with some neatly prepped segments of blood orange. All-day Sunday roasts (served until 7pm) also receive plenty of praise – especially when Bloody Marys and plates of Jersey oysters are also involved.