Isca

The Good Food Guide — Good

Located in multicultural Levenshulme, this small-plates restaurant, wine bar and wine shop has moved to larger premises on the opposite side of the A6. The new place is almost twice the size of the original, and they now have a kitchen bigger than a broom cupboard. That said, owners Caroline Dubois and Isobel Jenkins have replicated the relaxed look and feel of their old venue: furnishings are simple and the colour palate low-key. The menu is mostly vegetarian/vegan but neither didactic nor absolutist – an occasional chicken sandwich may cause a bit of fuss but the kitchen sticks to its principles, serving up innovative dishes based on organic, seasonal and locally produced food. Sustainability is also more than a token buzzword, while staff have a friendly, personable approach and detailed knowledge of the regularly changing repertoire. A ‘larger’ plate of fermented potato, celeriac and cavolo nero gratin – a clever variation on a dauphinoise theme – comes with a chicory and orange salad, while smaller plates might range from butternut squash with hazelnut, sage, pickled mushrooms and fried egg to a brightly composed, pastel-hued crunchy salad of cauliflower, sprouts, pomegranate, sesame and mint. To finish, you can’t go wrong with Pump Street chocolate ganache with cocoa nibs and olive oil. Excellent cakes and bakes are also available from the takeaway counter, along with Isca’s own maple-and-rosemary nuts and various gourmet goodies. On the drinks front, Isca specialises in natural wines, with the emphasis firmly on low-intervention and biodynamic producers. The list also provides a bonanza for those simple souls who delight in collecting wacky labels such as Lunatic (from Frederic Mabileau and Garo'vin in the Loire) and Stop Making Sense (from Fruita Analògica in Girona).

Established