The story
The Oarsman Marlow operates as a contemporary bistro where Head Chef Scott Smith draws on his Scottish background and experience at Arbutus and Wild Honey to craft a methodical yet inviting menu. The open kitchen showcases dishes built around regeneratively farmed ingredients sourced from local partners like The Ethical Butcher and Chiltern Heritage Orchards. Alongside the three-course seasonal plates, the larder counter offers small bites such as katsu fish, beef croquettes, and a charcuterie selection featuring Taleggio and fennel salame. This approach anchors the restaurant's identity in quality produce and accessible sharing culture.
Appetites are whetted by robust options like trotters and bacon served on beef dripping toast, or the house fish soup finished with rouille and Comte. Main courses rotate with the seasons, offering choices such as confit lamb breast with black garlic and carrot, or seared cod accompanied by a Thai green sauce. For those seeking comfort, the crisp pork schnitzel arrives with creamed savoy and a fried egg. Desserts provide a fitting conclusion; the warm ginger loaf pairs with butterscotch ice cream, while cheese lovers can order the Ecclefechan tart alongside Barkham Blue and Waterloo.
The bistro's reputation rests heavily on its extensive wine card, which features over 300 bottles focused on organic and biodynamic producers from more than 40 countries. Labels are arranged by style rather than region, highlighting sections dedicated to skin-contact wines and sparkling ciders from Normandy makers like Eric Bordelet. Locals might spot the Harrow and Hope Brut Reserve No 9, crafted right here in Marlow. The drinking experience complements the food across distinct spaces, from the dark-hued bar and cosy snug to the well-proportioned dining room, with vintage Boat Race adverts and a wooden dinghy adding a subtle nautical touch to the decor.
Recognition
Details
History
1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
Think Marlow and two things spring to mind: rowing and restaurants. Despite its name, this large town-centre 'bistropub' eases down on the former but puts its back into the latter. Yes, there’s a little wooden dinghy by the side entrance and the odd vintage Boat Race advert, but more prominent are the prints devoted to drink: wine is important here, with a regularly updated, 300-strong list of mainly organic and biodynamic bottles; ciders (from Normandy and Herefordshire) and an eclectic range of spirits are notable too. Food is served in the roomy dark-hued bar, the cosier snug or the well-proportioned dining room with its large serving hatch and views of a little terrace. Scottish chef Scott Smith (ex-Arbutus and Wild Honey) works methodically, delivering an inviting, oft-changing menu that lists three courses plus ‘larder and bar snacks’ such as charcuterie. Starters are especially appealing. In early July, a refreshing salad of goat’s curd with broad beans and peas was made still more summery with fresh fennel leaves and chopped chives, while toasted hazelnuts added extra crunch; in winter, expect more robust offerings such as pig's trotters and bacon on beef-dripping toast. To follow, braised lamb neck with spring vegetables was a gloriously rich and tender piece of meat presented in an iron casserole with baby turnips, courgettes and lightly pickled onions, together with a jug of first-rate gravy and little mounds of puréed aubergine and garlicky parsley on the plate. After that, our Ecclefechan tart, a Borders speciality, was a rich, moist Christmas pud-like confection described by the affable waiter as ‘Scotland on a plate’ – though the accompanying slice of Bonnet goat’s cheese (itself a full-flavoured treat) was best eaten separately. Prices are Marlow-high but, unlike some local rivals, the Oarsman steers a true course through crowded waters – especially when it comes to wine. Arranged in imaginative style categories, such as 'Amber Revolution' for skin-contact tipples, as well as regional locations from more than 40 countries, it is a passionate exploration of today's global wine scene. A clutch of fine sherries is worth a look, but so is the fizz list, which includes Harrow & Hope Brut Reserve No 7, made right here in Marlow itself.
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