The story
Vaasu by Atul Kochhar brings refined Pan-Indian dining to the Georgian streets of Marlow. Twice-Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar, who earned Britain’s first Indian Michelin star in 2001, channels his extensive travels across the subcontinent into every plate. His kitchen sources regional ingredients like Kashmiri chillies and north-eastern ginger to build a menu anchored in the culinary traditions of Punjab, Delhi, and Rajasthan. This dedication to authentic Indian flavours recently earned the restaurant a Good designation from The Good Food Guide.
The menu balances bold spice profiles with delicate execution, keeping heat approachable while layering complex aromatics. Pan-seared gun powder scallops arrive alongside cauliflower purée and caviar, while tandoori preparations highlight proteins like Hebridean lamb rump dressed with morel masala. Speculative pairings appear throughout, such as New Forest venison served with aubergine steak and a chocolate-glazed rogan sauce. Traditional foundations like signature black lentils ground these inventive compositions.
Deep green walls and subtle floral motifs create an intimate backdrop for modernist seating arrangements. Festoon lighting traces the ceiling, softening the elegantly opulent space for both couples and larger groups. Guests can navigate the experience through a seven-course tasting menu or a lighter small-plates lunch format. The bar complements the meal with crafted cocktails featuring local spirits and regional botanicals like coriander and jaggery.
Recognition
Details
History
Atul Kochhar was among the first generation of chefs to reinvent Indian cooking for the modern age. At his second Marlow address (he also runs Sindhu by the riverside), a gentle atmosphere is created by means of muted woodland colours, a sequence of matching framed pictures and festoon lighting across the ceiling. However, there is plenty to excite the imagination on a series of resourceful menus that might feature tandoori broccoli with tomato chutney and pomegranate to start, or perhaps baked spiced scallops with cauliflower purée and herb-scented ghee. Spicing is generally found to be on the mild side, so don't expect to be blasted with chilli – certainly not when lobster cooked in the tandoor comes with caramelised tomato and coconut korma alongside a grilled pineapple salad. A knowledgeable reader was particularly impressed by what Kochhar makes of traditional dishes like dhal makhani and saag gosht, but it is the more speculative ideas such as muntjac venison with aubergine, celeriac purée and a sauce of berries and chocolate that will tantalise a novelty-hungry crowd. By the time desserts are offered, the influence of Subcontinental cooking may have receded to a dot on the Indian Ocean horizon – or so it seems with carrot cake and walnut brittle, or chocolate fondant with berry salsa. Prepare your palate with an apposite cocktail such as a fragrantly fizzy jaggery and coriander mojito, before moving on to full-bodied wines with bags of tang.
1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
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