Benedicts

Richard and Katja Bainbridge have established a very polished operation at their sleek city-centre venue, which has a burnished look to it from shiny stripped floors and contemporary furnishings. An outdoor area beneath parasols is a must for balmy early evenings, and the style of service is inviting and relaxing in equal measure. People note the enthusiastic buzz that reliably fills the place, its principal attraction being the restaurant's meticulously structured tasting menus. A winter evening began with umami-laden teasers, ahead of a rice cracker with salmon roe and sherry mousse, served with an optional shot of fino. A brace of breads with flavoured butters heralded Alpine cheese soup and pickled celeriac (from the Alps of Norfolk, naturally) before a small serving of local lamb with truffled Jerusalem artichoke and parsley sponge. Fish was an unexpectedly trad serving of Cornish halibut in Champagne sauce, ahead of a choice of centrepiece dishes (garlicky sirloin steak, turbot Nantua, or a mushroom tart with red onion jus). A splotch of chocolate mousse with blood-orange sorbet paved the way for the signature pudding, Nanny Bush's trifle, made with rhubarb, raspberries, spiced Cognac and ginger – a fitting tribute to that spirited lady. Vegetarian and vegan repertoires are as inventive as the omnivore options, the latter perhaps encompassing celeriac, carrot and fennel terrine, as well as truffled salsify spaghetti. There's also a lively wine list with some well-chosen glasses to open proceedings.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence