1863 Restaurant

Opposite the church in a diminutive village just to the north of Ullswater, this dapper Victorian house has surely never looked as cared for as it does now. Constructed in 1863 (hence the name), the building has done time as the local blacksmith's and post office, but since 2016 it has operated as a restaurant with rooms, with an interior that gives off period energy (pictures, mirrors and objets d'art adorn most surfaces). Long-time head chef Phil Corrie stepped up in 2022 to become a business partner with owners Mark and Anne Vause, so it's full steam ahead in the Lakes. A great-value three-course deal is backed up by a tasting menu (five-course lunch, seven-course dinner) with optional wine flights, and the Cumbrian-born chef makes good use of the region's bounty. A grounding in classic cooking is revealed in a starter of shorthorn beef tartare, with a local egg yolk and local rapeseed oil, while heritage crapaudine beetroots get a fashionable workout with Ragstone goat's cheese and seeded cracker. Cartmel Valley venison is just the ticket (served with hen of the woods and winter truffle), and fish is also given a chance to shine (Nordic halibut, say, with brown butter bisque). To finish, Yorkshire rhubarb with whipped cheesecake and gingerbread is a winning combination. The Coravin wine-preservation system means you can expect a broad range of top tipples by the glass, with bottle prices starting at £34.