Fox & Hounds

Pause a moment outside this spruced-up village hostelry to view the ancient construction over the adjacent lane, featuring a huntsman, a pack of hounds and a fox whizzing towards the pub. Then do likewise – it’s worth it. Inside, a 2018 refurb has retained the pubby feel, keeping the venerable weathered beams and bare brick fireplaces, along with a bar where drinkers can (and do) enjoy pints of local ale while lounging in armchairs. The dining area features flagstone flooring, an open kitchen, a skylight and French windows looking onto a smart, partially covered beer garden. Executive chef and owner Brett Barnes has an impressive history, having rattled the pans at Arbutus, Mark Hix, and stellar Swedish venue Fäviken. With his head chef, Charlie Harrison, he produces a well-thought-out, fairly priced menu that’s equally appealing for slap-up celebrations or midweek drop-ins (anyone for a native-breed brisket burger?) The commitment to seasonality is real but understated, so an autumn meal might start with an exemplary pig’s head croquette (crisp coating, luscious, fatty interior) served straight from the pan with celeriac rémoulade and a sweet dollop of crab apple jelly. This could be followed by a sizeable hake fillet, flaky and succulent, atop a milky and flavoursome chowder of chestnut, spinach, sweetcorn and tender surf clams. Puddings, ancient and modern, are equally enticing, whether a caramelised panna cotta with blackberry compôte or a fresh-from-the-oven Bakewell-like apple pie. Service from a young, eager team is well-turned-out yet unpretentious (rather like the place itself). Drinks, too, cover most options, from original cocktails to a catch-all wine list, where it’s worth upgrading from the routine house white (£24) to the more intriguing ‘cellar selection’.