Seaview Restaurant

The Good Food Guide — Good

Saltburn has smartened itself up, and in the shape of the Seaview, it also has a highly popular dining venue to match. Yes, there's an acclaimed chippy takeaway at ground level, but the first-floor restaurant is no traditional buckets-and-spades caff. Right on the coast, it’s blessed with the most spectacular views through large picture windows: Victorian pier to the left, cliffs to the right and a glorious vista of the briny in-between. The interior is a bright, modern space, with vibrant artworks of sea creatures, sky-blue banquettes, a prominent jazz-funk soundtrack and a wooden boat suspended from the soaring ceiling. In summer, a terrace brings you even closer to the waves. Food is similarly a notch above the seaside norm – at moderate prices. Although you can follow the fish and chips route (top-notch stuff in every detail), the repertoire encompasses much more marine life (plus one vegetarian and one meat choice). Perhaps start with cauliflower soup: a creamy velouté with spinach and a chunk of high-quality smoked haddock as its centrepiece (though the jury’s out on whether the addition of curried sultanas and curry oil is necessary), then continue with a handsomely presented plate of steamed cod, surrounded by a tangy, creamy mussel and bacon chowder. Portions are large, so a hefty rhubarb trifle finale might floor many diners (imagine eating an entire birthday cake). Still, there’s a generosity of spirit here, and even if the service is somewhat untutored, the basics are sound: first-rate home-baked focaccia; an ample choice of teas and soft drinks; a serviceable, good-value wine list with everything available by the glass. And nothing detracts from that outstanding view.

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