The story
The Black Bull in Sedbergh grounds its modern British cooking in the landscapes that surround us, drawing inspiration from the Howgill Fells. Owners James Ratcliffe and Nina Matsunaga built a kitchen that follows the seasons and relies on honest technique rather than excess. Their work has earned consistent recognition from The Good Food Guide, which recently highlighted their evolving menu and the launch of Matsunaga’s new Tsuchi concept within the same building. Every plate reflects a careful balance between local heritage and quiet innovation.
The menu moves steadily through regional produce while introducing subtle international shifts. You might find Howgill Hereford beef pie served with seasonal greens, followed by crispy Korean beef wrapped tightly in a shiso leaf. The British kitchen also turns out pork belly in XO sauce with alliums and an extremely savoury black sesame panna cotta finished with basil oil. Sunday roasts draw on prime local herds and arrive alongside glazed treacle carrots.
A dual layout separates the bustling pub space from the quieter dining rooms. The main gathering area features bright red banquettes, string lights, and dried floral arrangements that keep things warm without feeling staged. Guests pour local ales or sample unusual soft drinks like Zingi Bear before moving toward the sparser split level tables. A carefully sourced wine list highlights unexpected bottles from Slovakia, Slovenia, and Serbia to match any British cooking preference.
Recognition
Details
History
2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
*Chef Nina Matsunaga has launched a new restaurant concept, Tsuchi, at The Black Bull. Look out for a new review coming soon.* Geographically, Sedbergh is part of the Yorkshire Dales, although it sits on the edge of the Lake District. Something of that dual identity informs the layout of this revamped coaching inn, which accommodates two very different spaces with two very different personalities. To the left as you go in is the cosy, convivial pub room – our preferred spot – complete with a bar, equine paraphernalia, dried flower displays, bright red banquettes and fairy lights strung around the walls. Here you can sup local ales and get welcome sustenance from platters of home-cooked ham and artisan cheese, hot Herdwick lamb sandwiches, maple pea houmous or Mansergh Hall pork and kimchi stew. To the right are the dining areas, the first being a dog-friendly antechamber, the second a sparser, more formal split-level affair. The menu highlights local produce but there’s a noticeable Asian bent to the more ambitious dishes: expect Howgill Hereford beef pie with seasonal greens alongside crispy Korean beef wrapped in a shiso leaf or pork belly in XO sauce with alliums. To finish, there might be an 'extremely savoury’ black-sesame panna cotta with basil oil and shards of sesame cracker. On Sundays, prime meat sourced from local herds is the kitchen's USP, accompanied by sides including treacle carrots. Service is well-meaning, although it seems better suited to the pub side of things than the restaurant. However, the Black Bull’s drinks offer gets full marks, from unusually pleasing ‘softs’ including Zingi Bear (an organic ginger switchel) to fascinating sips from Slovakia, Slovenia and Serbia on the diverse, good-value wine list. A new outdoor bar and kitchen facility should add to the Black Bull's all-round appeal.
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