Cantaloupe

good quality, good value cooking

*The restaurant will be closing on 8 August, before relaunching as a new concept called Bar Caput on 26 August 2026.* The word cantaloupe conjures up sunshine flavours, southern sensuality and Latin American vibes – not a side street in a northern industrial town working hard to revitalise itself. Still, you’ve got to give the owners marks for wishful thinking. The cheerful explanation is that the two chef-patrons simply like the fruit – which is fair enough. Located in a Dickensian-style area where a clutch of independent outlets have brought a vibrant air to the surrounding '60s-era car parks and malls, this small, easy-going bistro is a much-welcome addition to the local scene. Inside, the welcome is friendly and compensates for the somewhat utilitarian furnishings. Cantaloupe prioritises its budget where it really counts – on the food, cooking and service, plus a focus on doing simple things well and not over-stretching the short, restrained and fairly priced daily menu. And it’s paid off: the place now has a clutch of loyal fans who appreciate the unpretentious atmosphere. The kitchen likes to deep-dive into lesser-known Italian dishes such as brill crudo with orange and wild oregano, home-pickled verdure sott’olio with globe artichoke and scoops of creamy stracciatella, or thickly carved lamb with bagna cauda – although the latter came as a meagre puddle of anchovy-tinged sauce. More successful was delicate rabbit with plump white asparagus, morels and a judicious scattering of fresh tarragon. Of the three main courses, the one vegetarian choice on our visit was zucca (Italian squash) with Gorgonzola, fig mostarda and radicchio. A salad of whole, mixed leaves and mustard vinaigrette added a refreshing and crisp sparkle to the meaty mains. The line-up of desserts is limited, although our gently soothing Marsala, cherry and meringue semifreddo hit the spot. Along with the intriguing wine list, leave time to check out the remarkable choice of digestifs.