Ember

The Sheepfold Stables on the banks of the river Wear were built in 1883 to house the 100 or so horses used to ferry goods across town. Today, the rambling stable yard with its mellow brick walls and stable clock has been carefully restored as part of a multimillion-pound development project by Sunderland City Council. Spacious Ember sits among a collection of independent bars and restaurants within the main courtyard. Inside, it boasts an attractive contemporary dining room with an open kitchen. Small details such as quality wine glasses and linen napkins elevate the space beyond the everyday, while a sunny (indoor) terrace makes the best of views across the river. Tamir Hassan, a Gordon Ramsay protégé, creates a different themed menu each month, and has already covered Tokyo, Paris, Istanbul and Mexico. Without the opportunity to refine dishes over time, we wondered if they might disappoint. From an Athens-themed feast of mezedakia and grills, slow-braised lamb in clear stock with lettuce, spring onion, dill and lemon was tender but somewhat underwhelming without avgolemono (the egg and lemon sauce that traditionally brings a creamy richness to a Greek fricassée). Similarly, ‘BBQ ribs’ were simply doused in barbecue sauce. Happily, all was redeemed by the mezedakia – a 20-strong selection of small plates, each weighing in at a punchy £4: feta with watermelon; stuffed vine leaves; calamari; some excellent stuffed baby courgettes with a tahini dressing; sesame-crusted feta with honey and a house-made taramasalata – all of them first-rate. The Greek flatbread, simply seasoned with salt, olive oil and served hot from the griddle, was exceptional too. Like the food, the wine list has a strong international bias, with lots of familiar names by the glass.