Café Fish

When visiting Mull, those in the know wouldn't miss this low-key, no-frills dining room perched atop the old CalMac ferry office on the North Pier. There are superb views out to sea but, first, check out the compendious blackboard menu of 'fantastically fresh' seafood. Joint owners (and cousins) Jane Gill and chef Liz McGougan have their own boat (The Highlander) but also procure the pick of the catch from the local crews. That might mean crispy whole sea bream with citrus salsa to a classic fish stew in spiced Tuscan broth with bread and gremolata. If you’re staying on Mull for a few nights, you can ring the changes – perhaps a few locally grown oysters, an ‘outstanding’ fish pie or a grand platter of grilled seafood doused with garlic butter. They don’t serve chips, although the place is known for its sourdough pizzas (including a lobster thermidor version). Glengorm steaks and a few desserts such as a rich chocolate pot or warm Belgian waffles complete the food offer. It's the Hebridean dream: the best place in town for 'intimacy with a wee buzz', and you can wear an old jumper. Staff are patient and jolly – and they don't treat visitors like tourists (most people on Mull seem to demonstrate this kindness). To drink, expect anything from Aperol spritz and Mull whisky to fish-friendly white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Sancerre and Verdejo. Opening times are seasonal and you must book for dinner, although they sometimes take walk-ins for lunch (check the website or social media) – and remember it’s cash only.