The Brasserie at Saltmoore

Top chefs and their backers are fast discovering the possibilities of North Yorkshire, a fact clearly evidenced by Saltmoore. This luxurious development on estate land just off the coast road between Whitby and the more sedate seaside village of Sandsend includes a newly renovated Victorian hotel, a spa (dubbed a ‘wellness-led sanctuary’), a soon-to-open high-end restaurant (Calluna) and a light-filled orangery housing a brasserie. While Tommy Banks (the Black Swan et al) was called in to consult for the opening year, Adam Maddock is now at the helm as executive chef. A springtime inspection meal found the brasserie yet to be firing on all cylinders, but with promising potential – although French windows thrown open to a terrace surrounded by lush gardens gave proceedings a head start. Grills, local delicacies such as Whitby crab, and seasonal modern British dishes are the mainstays of the main menu. An opener of cod-cheek scampi was clothed in slightly undercooked batter and arrived with an oddly sweet and brown cauliflower purée, though the appetisingly piquant warm tartare sauce made some amends. To follow, tender slices of juicy lamb rump were matched with fondant potato, asparagus, a zesty pickled walnut purée and crunchy cubes of turnip, while an indulgent tiramisu choux bun was filled with mascarpone and a shot of coffee, surrounded by a pool of chicory-root liqueur (like boozy Camp Coffee). Service, on this occasion, was well-meaning but under-trained, with staff having little knowledge of the menu and assuming all diners were hotel guests. Nevertheless, with its range of menus (breakfasts, afternoon teas, kids' deals, Sunday roasts, etc), plus a well-chosen wine list and diverting house cocktails, the brasserie has much in its favour. And few can resist drinks on the terrace on a sunny day.