The story
At Newell in Sherborne, Paul Merrony and partner Tracey Petersen serve accessible French cooking from a kitchen they built from scratch. After leaving London's Giaconda Dining Room, the duo transformed a failed pub into this intimate bistro, running the service with just two staff members. They prioritize honest flavours and seasonal produce over formality, aiming to satisfy hungry diners with dishes that are well-prepared and beautifully presented.
A homespun honesty defines the space, where plain light-wood tables sit against dark-green walls topped with red napkins. Old-fashioned sideboards anchor the corners, giving the room a grounded feel that matches the straightforward menu scribbled on a blackboard. Beyond the main floor, five letting rooms with en-suites allow guests to extend their stay after dinner. The setting feels lived-in and comfortable, avoiding any sense of pretence while offering warmth for a long evening.
The menu celebrates classic French bistro staples with a focus on value, offering three courses for £28.50 when you avoid supplements. Starter options include duck liver mousse with fig compote or celeriac tonnato. Hearty choices like pig's trotters also appear on the board, leading into mains like cod provençal, duck confit with pommes Anna, or a gigot of lamb. The kitchen prepares daily fish specials such as Dover sole with straw potatoes, alongside shared plates like roast guinea fowl for two. Desserts round out the meal with Gallic favourites including Agen prunes in red wine, iced apricot soufflé, and crème brûlée.
Readers of the Good Food Guide have awarded Newell a Good rating for its dedication to quality and value. The wine list features sixty selections, starting with easy-drinking whites like Le Lesc from the Côtes de Gascogne. Guests can also order glasses of kir or Ricard to accompany their meal. The recognition reflects a kitchen that delivers lusciously flavoured dishes without the markup often found in similar establishments.
Recognition
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