The story
The Dawnay Arms in York serves modern British cooking on the banks of the river Ouse. Martel Smith stepped away from a career serving caviar and foie gras in Leeds to restore this village pub in 2007, choosing a casual approach over fine dining precision. His focus on honest flavours has earned the venue a Good Food Guide recognition and praise for offering "quality of food or classy informality" according to the Yorkshire Post.
Martel and Kerry Smith purchased the 1779 building in May 2007, taking on a property that had been closed for eighteen months. They refurbished the site with family assistance and reopened in September, applying Martel's high-kitchen experience to a modern British menu built on robust simplicity. He avoids culinary fireworks, concentrating on dishes that satisfy reliably. This steady hand keeps the kitchen standards high across seasonal shifts and daily specials added from the blackboard.
A cohesive modern British selection starts with local catches, including a Whitby crab tian accompanied by avocado and pink grapefruit, and potted sea trout served with pickled lemon mayo. Mains feature rich textures such as a confit duck leg terrine with hoisin sauce, alongside herb roast chicken breast prepared with wild mushroom orzo. Game options highlight the region, with a local roe deer burger topped with Yorkshire blue cheese and onion marmalade. Desserts close the meal with a classic Bakewell tart poured with crème anglaise and a hot chocolate fondant alongside pistachio ice cream.
Located in Newton-on-Ouse at the gates to Beningbrough Hall, the pub offers moorings where diners can arrive by boat and stay overnight. A large garden extends down to the river, providing picnic tables on the greensward for outdoor meals when the weather permits. The interior combines a snug bar heated by a log fire with a sunny restaurant space. The room shifts to a moodier tone at night, with candles and lamps illuminating chunky oak tables to preserve the warmth of the setting.
Recognition
Location